Gardenia

• 치자꽃, 20여종 존재
• 아시아, 아프리카
• 수율이 낮아 천연은 별로 없음

Formula

Linalool 20 -> 25
waxy 확산성

Methyl Benzoate 5 -> 7
Ylang Ylang/tuberasa 느낌 - floral, napthyl, phenolic, alcolic, fruity,
floral, sweet

Benzyl acetate 5 -> 6
green balsam

Cis-3-hexenyl salicylate 10 -> 10

Eugenol 10 -> 13
선명하고 진해짐

Indole (1%) 10 -> 10
무거워지고 진해짐

Cis Jasmone (1%) 5 -> 8
샐러리, 녹차, 홍차, 우롱차, 느낌 , - woody, floral, jasmin, 천연감
천연감,

Cis-3-hexenol (1%) 10 -> 10
green

Cis-3-hexenyl acetate (1%) 5 -> 4
green, sweet

Aldehyde C 14 5
Gamma-undecalacton
fruity 부드럽게 내려주는 느낌, creamy, fatty, lactonic(침스러운)

Gamma-decalacton 5
berry, buttery, peach, sweet, juicy, lactonic

Hedion 10 -> 15
defuse, 확산

Benzyl acohol 5 -> 3
Rose, floral, phenolic, balsam, 가벼운데 무거움, last note, 용제(꾸덕한애들 희석)
향을 모아줌, 눌러줌

Ylang Ylang (b) 5 -> 4
천연감, narcotic

Methyl anthranilate 5 -> 4
fruity, floral, neroli, orange flower, animalic, 느끼함

aldehyde +Methyl anthranilate -> shiff base

citronellal (al-> aldehyde)

So-called Aldehyde (진짜 aldehyde는 아님, CHO 아님)

C14 = peach aldehyde
C15 = apricot aldehyde
C16 = strawberry aldehyde
C18 = coconut aldehyde
C19 = pineapple aldehyde
C20 = rasberry aldehyde

2点 Accord
1) Gamma-undecalacton + Linalool -> 좀더 가벼움 accord 좋음
2) Gamma-decalacton + Linalool -> accord 좋음
3) Methyl benzoate + Linalool -> 확산성이 좋음

• Jasmin + Green + Lacton

Apple

• fragrance식의 조향

Formula

Verdox 20 -> 26
fruity, green, woody(coniperas/침엽수), mossy, 샴푸에 많이 쓰임

Aldehyde C14 5 -> 5
fruity, sweet

Hexyl Salicylate 5
green, 생과일느낌

Beta damascone C 1% 5 -> 8
fruity, floral

Cis-3 hexenyl salicylate 5 -> 8
green, balsam, 무게감 약간

Cis-3 hexenol 1% 10 -> 6
green, 향 약간띄워주는

Cis-3 hexenyl accetate 1% 5 ->8
풋사과 느낌, grassy

Linalool 10 -> 15
floral, 조화제

Geraniol 5 -> 15
floral, green, 화장품스러움

Geranyl acetate 10 -> 5
green

Benzyl alcohol 10 -> 14
보류제, balsam, 차분하게

Vanillin 5 -> 5
creamy, powdery

• 추가
  Cis Jasmone (1%) 5 -> 안어울림

Verdox
= O T B C H A = O-Tert - buthyl - Cyclo - Hexyl - Acetate

Hexyl Salicylate
fresh, floral, herbal, green, sweet, orchid, balsam, medicinal (green계열 보류제로 많이 사용)

• Linaloo/ Hedion - 조화제로 많이 쓰임 (확산성 부여해줌)