Perfumer Class 4 - Carnation/ Violet

Claire Jiyeon Baek·2023년 2월 25일
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Perfumer

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11/21

Carnation (Spicy Floral)

  • 천연 abs는 수율이 낮아 고가(주로 합성으로 사용), 생화와 향의 차이가 남

PEA 15 20

Citronellol 5 8

Linalool 10 5

eugenol 10 5

  • spicy 한 느낌을 boosting 할때 (이성질체화)

iso eugenol 10 5

  • fungent, spicy, floral, woody, 씁쓸(spicy 한 느낌을 boosting 할때)

hedion(Methyl didydro jasmonate) 5 5

hexyl cinnamic aldehyde 5 5

ylang ylagn (b) natural replacer 2 2

benzyl salicylate 20 15

Cis-3-hexenyl salicylate 5 5

  • green, floral, medicinal, metalic

vanillin 10 5

  • sweet, oily, creamy, chocholate, balsam

heliotropine 5 5

CLove oil(n) 2 2

  • 추가

indole

cinammic alcohol 5

cinnamic aldehyde 1% 4

cis-3 hexanol

damascone

  • 산화 됨에따라 성질이 변함
    eugenol -> iso eugenol -> vanillin
  • cis가 붙으면 green한 느낌

Formation

1) floral(rose accord feat.jasmin)
(hedion - boosting, 퍼지게 만듬)
2) jasmin 스러워짐, 천연감 up
3) key note (spicy)
4) fix 보류제, 정리됨, 차분해짐 balsam
5) powdery, balsam
6) natural 감 추가

  • rose + jasmin + spicy ( +fix, blend)

Violet 제비꽃

  • parma/ victoria 종
  • 종류:
    violet flower abs (합성으로 주로 쓰임)
    violet leaf abs - victoria 종에서 추출
    violet root abs

alpha ionone 1% 25 25

**beta ionone 10 15
-oris(난초뿌리), berry, floral, mossy, cedarwood, tropical, violet,

gamma methyl ionone 20 15
-woody, powdery, floral, mossy

pea 10 5

**methyl octine carbonate (MOC) 1% 5 20

  • green, floral, leafy, 오이스러운, vegitable green

cis-3-hexenyl acetate 1% 5 10

  • leafy green, fruity, grassy, 바나나껍데기 느낌,

hydroxy citronellal 5 8

hexyl cinnamic aldehyde 5 8

linalool 5 5

hedione 5 8

**iso-e-super 5 10

  • woody, dry, amber, ketonic

ylang ylang (b) 5 3

1) woody, rooty (alpha+gamma-body, beta-보조)
3) floral up
4) green, leafy (key)+보류제
5) floral boosting
6) 보류제
7) natural up

+추가
benzyl salicylate 5
cinnamic alchohol 2
cinnamic aldehyde 2

-> 망함

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