Joy

1930년, henri almeras, bouquet type

(Jean patou -> Dior)

• Aldehyde c11 ( 1%) 5 -> 3

• Bergamot (b) 3

- Helional 5 -> 3
watery, sweet(melon peel), marine, fresh, ozonic, muguet, top note

• Methyl anthranilate 5 -> 1

• Hydroxy citronelal 4 -> 5

• Phenylacetatedehyde 5 -> 3
  좋음

• ylang ylang (b) 1
  학명: cananga

• Jasmin (b) 45

• Rose petal (b) 25

• CIs - jasmone 2

• Cinamic alcohol 2

• Aldehyde C14 2
  복숭아- rose 극대화

• Rose oxide -> 좋음 5 -> 2
  geranium, green, natural, metalic, fresh - top

• Rosalva 1 -> 2
  멍게, aldehydic, dew, - top에서 임팩트, 볼륨감, 비릿

• Civet cat (b) 1
  rose 강조

• a - methyl ionone 2

• Sandal wood 1

• Musk ketone 4 -> 5

• Musk T -> 좋음 4
  (Ethylenebrassylate)
  musky, sweet, powdery, amber, woody, - 살냄새, last에서 보류제로 많이 쓰임

-Benzoin (n) 4
balsam, 고무나무, sweet, woody, tonka, vanilla, - 알싸한 느낌

-> Rose 가 1/4
나머지는 3~5

L'oir du tems

nina ricci

1948/ francis fabron
spicy floral type

2차세계대전 종전 후 평화의 상징 느낌

Melis accord = spicy + salicylate ( 1:3 ~ 4.5)

(eugenol + benzyl salicylate)

• aldehyde c11(1%) 4 2

• bergamot 4 5

• styrallyl acetate 4 2

• eugenol 4 3

• rose (b) 6

• jasmin (b) 7.5

• ylang ylang (b) 1

• hydroxy citronellal 4

• terpineol 4 2

• vetiver (n) 4

• a-methyl ionone 10

• methyl benzoate 1

• sandal wood 2

• musk keton 15 -> 20

• benzoin 9n) 1 -> 2

• benzyl salicylate 20 24